Lubricants and Fluids

These are Manufacturer Recommendations which ocassionally get upgraded/updated. You can check any auto parts store for updates:

TYPE:   API(American Petroleum Institute) GRADE "certified for gasoline engines"
For VISCOSITY follow the values given below:

SAE 10-W30  for  -18 to +38 *C ( 0 to +100* F)

SAE 5W30     for   -29 to     0* C (-20 to +32* F)


For best Fuel Economy and Cold Starting,select the lowest SAE Viscosity Grade of oil for the Temperature Range

It is highly recommended to use Full Synthetic Engine Oil (No blends)when you can.Use any good brand.You will get better Fuel Economy ,less wear and tear on engine,and you can go longer between oil changes.
The same applies to all other lubricants;synthetic is better!

(Steering)Intermediate Shaft Removal/Installation

Upper Image shows Intermediate Shaft Lower Image shows how the two telescopic ends meet in the middle ,one inside the other.


The two Pinch Bolt ends of the Shaft (Upper one to Steering Shaft/Lower one to Steering Gear Input Shaft)
Note the red marks that I made on the Pinch bolt ends as a alignment guide

The above image shows the newly installed Intermediate Shaft (Steering Shaft U-Joint end)
The below image shows the lower end of the same shaft that connects to the Steering gear Input Shaft which is accessed from under the front end of the jeep.If the old pinch bolt end  does not come off easily,put a wedge/flathead screwdriver in the gap and use something like a pipe wrench to twist it ...then pull off.

Closeup of the Pinch Bolt ends.The top one(connecting to Steering Shaft) is self aligning since the    inside is not symmetrical.The bottom one is symmetrical inside  and fits on a splined shaft(Steering  Gear Input Shaft)Note the gaps that you might have to open wider using a wedge/flathead screwdriver  along with a pipe wrench to twist the wedge/screwdriver so as to enable the"mouth" to open wider which makes the shaft ends easier to remove. 
                               

Note: It takes some effort since the areas you need to work in are a bit tight with little wiggle room. You might have to turn the front tires physically to make Steering Gear Pinch Bolt face down to enable easier pinch bolt Removal/Installation. Use common sense and make the tires face straight forward again after the Pinch Bolt is tight(Bright Marker or Nail Polish will come very handy here )

Tools needed:
Torque wrench
Socket to fit pinch bolts
Large Screwdriver (Not the drink!)

Study the pics first!


REMOVAL

1. Park your Jeep on a level surface and put it in REVERSE GEAR(MANUAL)/PARK(Automatic)
2. Engage the Parking/Emergency Brake.
3. Lift the front end of the Jeep using jackstands and and disconnect the battery.
4. Turn the front wheels to the straight ahead position.
5. Mark the relationship of the Upper U-Joint to Steering Shaft and Lower U-Joint to Steering Gear Input Shaft (Use bright paint or nail polish (don't let your wife catch you doing that!)

6.Loosen and remove the Pinch Bolts at both Upper and Lower U-Joints. (For Shaft Removal You don't have to remove or loosen /re-position the Steering Gear on a YJ,at least I did not have to! )

7.Pry the Intermediate Steering Shaft out of the Steering Shaft U-Joint with a large screwdriver.
Pull the shaft from the Steering Gearbox.

INSTALLATION

A new Intermediate Steering Shaft usually comes compressed lengthwise to save packing space( The design is basically two shafts,one is smaller (connects to Steering Gear) ...and fits inside the bigger one(Connects to Steering Shaft),like a telescope.This is a safety feature so that a driver does not get impaled in case of a front collision!
It takes some effort so either clamp one end to something and pull at the other end till the length between the two pinch bolts is slightly smaller than needed. Position it taking care you align the marks(copy the marks from the old shaft to the new one)and tighten the pinch bolts to 33 Ft-Lbs using a Torque Wrench.

Self Diagnostic Codes 1991 -1995 YJ's

Turn Ignition(without starting) ON.. OFF.. ON.. OFF.. ON. CHECK ENGINE light will flash the following codes for diagnostics. If any trouble codes are stored they will flash just like morse code and after all the codes have been displayed or if there are no codes to show "55" will flash (5 quick flashes...pause...5 quick flashes{Between two diagnostic codes e.g. "21" and "55" there will be a longer pause). Refer to chart for cracking the codes!

Code 11 Probable Cause ........:IGNITION
Code 13 ...................................Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (vacuum).
Code 14................................... M.............A..............P Sensor ( electrical).
Code 15................................... Distance Sensor or Circuit
Code 17................................... Engine running too cool.
Code 21....................................Oxygen Sensor or Circuit.
Code 22....................................Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit.
Code 23....................................MAT Sensor or Circuit.
Code 24................................... Throttle Position Sensor(TPS) Sensor or Circuit.
Code 25....................................Automatic Idle Speed Circuit.
Code 27.....................................Fuel InjectorControl.
Code 31....................................EVAP Solenoid or Circuit.
Code 33....................................Air Conditioning Clutch Relay.
Code 41....................................Alternator Field.
Code 42....................................Automatic Shutdown Relay.
Code 44....................................Battery Temperature Sensor.
Code 46....................................Battery Over-Voltage.
Code 47....................................Battery Under-Voltage.
Code 51....................................Oxygen Sensor-Lean Condition Indicated.
Code 52....................................Oxygen Sensor-Lean Condition Indicated.
Code 53.................................. Internal Engine Controller fault.
Code 55....................................END OF CODE OUTPUT.
Code 62....................................Emissions Maintenance Reminder(EMR) milage accumulator.
Code 63....................................Controller Failure EEPROM write denied.

ROAD TRIP CHECKLIST

1. Extra Dist Rotor/Cap/Ignition Wires/Dielectric Grease.
2. Coolant Leak Sealer.
3. Concentrated Coolant & Deionized Water (Good for unsealed batt as well).
4. Brake Fluid(same for Clutch)
5. Jack/Jack Stand.
6. Propane/Butane Torch.
7. Brake System Cleaner.
8. Grease Gun/Pistol Grip.
9. Grease.
10. Extra Spare Tire.
11. Lug Nut Socket /Wrench with Lock Nut Adapter.
12. Emergency Air Pump.
13. Fix Flat Kit.
14. Inverter.(12VDC -120VAC).
15. First Aid Kit.
16. CB-Radio.
17. Extra Engine Oil,Gear oil/Lubricant,Brake Fluid.

AMC 242 / Inline / 4.0 L (3,959 cc)/ 6 Cyl / Fuel Injected High Output

Jeep YJ Fuel Tank Removal and Installation

!!! CAUTION !!!
SEE SAFETY DISCLAIMER

Below L is the fuel filler related fasteners.

Below R is the fasteners on the rear side of skid plate.

Note the fastener sticking out;that's the one for the strap that holds the tank on the skid plate.

Prepare the rusted fasteners for removal.Spray with a penetrating oil to loosen up some rust(which you will most likely encounter). Give it a day or two prior to removal/replacement of fuel tank.
1 buddy to help with the tank removal and to hand you tools while you are under the Jeep.

Tools:13 mm socket /ratchet/extension

Locking Pliers(To hold bolt on top,while you remove the nut at bottom)

Small Hacksaw

Dust protection for eyes and breathing(Lot of rust/dirt will fall out while you are under the Jeep

2 Jackstands,1regular Jack(Hydraulic ones are pretty cheap $25 approx,and more convenient)

Anti-Seize Compound

Lots of rags,an oil pan(To catch fuel spills),and a waterproof tarp or sheet to catch the dirt/rust.

Lay the tarp on a level surface and park the Jeep on it,leaving extra tarp about 3 feet behind and forward of the tank. Use the Parking Brake and put the tranny in Park(Automatic Tranny) or Reverse (Manual Transmission)

Diconnect Battery!!!!!!!!!

Other than the ratchet and socket (13 mm,,with extension {For the fasteners at rear,near the bumper} you might need a small , hacksaw...so keep it handy).

  Below is the  skid plate image with the loosened nut/bolt still in place.

Next  image shows the flap that separates the fuel filler hose area(Left Driver side wheel well)

The Tank is attached to the Skid Plate,using the two straps.The skid plate attaches to the frame/chassis.The Tank is very heavy when full so try to drain as much fuel as possible(if it's leaking,keep a drain pan under it,filler cap off,and it will drain naturally...make sure u are ready with an approved gasoline container to fill the leaking gas with ...otherwise the drain pan is going to overflow and cause a big mess).

Therefore,to take the Tank out (or "drop" the tank),you have to first detach the skid plate,lower the tank a little,using the jack,disconnect the various hoses(Fuel vent(Clamped),Fuel Filler(Clamped),4 more on top of the tank(2 Clamped),and then ,carefully lower the tank fully.The reason for lowering the tank a little is because the four hoses on top of the tank are short (so is the fuel sending unit wire connection),and two of them are clamped;lowering the tank a little gives easier access to disconnect them before fully lowering the tank,after making sure the filler and vent hose has been disconnected as well.Those are accessed from the rear driver side wheel well(after removing the tire).There is a shroud with pop out fasteners) Also,a few fasteners have to be removed from around the fuel filler cap.This will make it easy for the hoses to come off from both ends,before dropping the tank(Don't lower the tank before you disconnect the filler cap to tank hoses).You may need to wiggle the tank a bit while lowering it because the passenger side of the skid plate overlaps the exhaust pipe(for safety reasons).

The YJ fuel tank has a metal skid plate(The tank actually sits on it ,attached snugly by two straps,front side is hinged into the skid plate and rear side has a bolt end which comes down at the rear,under the bumper. and,depending on the model year,it will either have a metal,or a poly fuel tank.There are 3 fasteners in the forward facing side of the skid plate(in a simple nut/bolt configuration where you are gonna have to hold the accessable bolt from top,using either a wrench/pliers/or locking pliers(which I used)).Both the nut and the bolt can be accessed easily.The bad part is that the nut/bolts might have so much rust that your socket will not get a good grip and will slip.The good part is that you can use the hacksaw and cut the nut/bolt all the way or,depending on how stuck it is,just halfway,and use a pipe wrench(little version) to pry it loose .You can then get galvanized ,or better,stainless steel nut/bolt combo and they will never rust again.


The rear bolts should be easier to remove,but care should be taken,as two of the rear bolts(Bolt on top,nut on bottom) are actually extensions of the fuel tank harness and should never be damaged or you will have to replace the two straps.

Once the tank is lowered enough,disconnect the four hoses(Plus electrical connector for Sending Unit) on the top and two on the side.Now you can lower it further and(After gently dragging the tank out from under the Jeep) stick tubing inside to siphon the fuel into an approved container.(Assuming there was no leak on the tank and you are drainng it now)

The fuel pump assembly can now be removed after loosening and taking out the fasteners. Be very careful when you pull out the Fuel Pump /Sending Unit assembly as it is very delicate with sensor stuff hanging out.

If you are replacing the tank,you can use the same unit.

Installation is the reverse of removal.Make sure you tighten the fasteners to correct torque...after applying Anti-Seize Compound/Lubricant.

SOME ESSENTIAL TOOLS FOR THE DO IT YOURSELF JEEPER

1/2'' BREAKER BAR (FOR THOSE STUBBORN FASTENERS)
36 MM 6 POINT SOCKET
12 POINT 13 MM SOCKET
5/8 SOCKET30 MM SOCKET
7/8 SOCKET( U-JOINT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION)U-JOINT TOOL
3/8 SOCKET,10MM SOCKET/WRENCH (FOR FUEL FILTER)
AMC 242 SYNTH......ETIC OIL FILTER SIZE FOR "FRAM" XG 16AIR FILTER SIZE CA3373
(FOR MOTOMASTER 23-3191-2 )
TORQUE WRENCH WITH ADAPTERS FOR THE VARIOUS SOCKETS
TORX SCREWDRIVER SET (FOR THOSE ODD FASTENERS ON DOORS,PANELS,HARD TOP ETC
DIELECTRIC GREASE
BRAKE SYSTEM CLEANER
BRAKE LUBRICANT(FOR SLIDERS ETC ON CALIPERS)
ANTI-SEIZE COMPOUND
SUCTION GREASE GUN (TO DRAIN FLUIDS)
HEAVY DUTY PISTOL GREASE GUN (WITH FLEXIBLE GREASE GUN HOSE)
OIL FILTER WRENCH
LOTS OF LINT FREE RAGS
TURKEY BASTER(TO SUCK OUT FLUID FROM BRAKE AND POWER STEERING PUMP RESERVOIR)


Note:There may be variations in design during production for improvement in safety,funtionality etc ,these variations may or may not be in your manual ,so don't be alarmed if a certain part looks different(e.g. Fuel sending unit) in a newer Jeep of the same model year.Moreover,be aware of any changes /modifications that have been made by a previous owner.

My first jeep!

I grew up in the mountains of Kashmir and have seen Jeeps where they should be ..
..up and down dirt roads,snaking through bewitching mountains..CJ`s,MJ`s,M&M variants,and ,of course....the wanna be jeeps like Maruti Suzuki Gypsy,or the grotesque mutations like ....Bolero,Armada etcetra.

Since I live in Canada now,I chose the (1992) Jeep YJ Renegade a stock leafsprung Jeep that had an inline fuel injected engine (AMC 242,renowned as by far the most successful engine for Jeep,ever.)a great 5 speed tranny (AX-15,also regarded as the best for it`s class).So here`s my first blog...ever ,and I will update it slowly ,but surely, whenever I get the chance,and will share it with all my fellow jeepers in Canada and around the world.

Yavar