Jeep YJ Fuel Tank Removal and Installation

!!! CAUTION !!!
SEE SAFETY DISCLAIMER

Below L is the fuel filler related fasteners.

Below R is the fasteners on the rear side of skid plate.

Note the fastener sticking out;that's the one for the strap that holds the tank on the skid plate.

Prepare the rusted fasteners for removal.Spray with a penetrating oil to loosen up some rust(which you will most likely encounter). Give it a day or two prior to removal/replacement of fuel tank.
1 buddy to help with the tank removal and to hand you tools while you are under the Jeep.

Tools:13 mm socket /ratchet/extension

Locking Pliers(To hold bolt on top,while you remove the nut at bottom)

Small Hacksaw

Dust protection for eyes and breathing(Lot of rust/dirt will fall out while you are under the Jeep

2 Jackstands,1regular Jack(Hydraulic ones are pretty cheap $25 approx,and more convenient)

Anti-Seize Compound

Lots of rags,an oil pan(To catch fuel spills),and a waterproof tarp or sheet to catch the dirt/rust.

Lay the tarp on a level surface and park the Jeep on it,leaving extra tarp about 3 feet behind and forward of the tank. Use the Parking Brake and put the tranny in Park(Automatic Tranny) or Reverse (Manual Transmission)

Diconnect Battery!!!!!!!!!

Other than the ratchet and socket (13 mm,,with extension {For the fasteners at rear,near the bumper} you might need a small , hacksaw...so keep it handy).

  Below is the  skid plate image with the loosened nut/bolt still in place.

Next  image shows the flap that separates the fuel filler hose area(Left Driver side wheel well)

The Tank is attached to the Skid Plate,using the two straps.The skid plate attaches to the frame/chassis.The Tank is very heavy when full so try to drain as much fuel as possible(if it's leaking,keep a drain pan under it,filler cap off,and it will drain naturally...make sure u are ready with an approved gasoline container to fill the leaking gas with ...otherwise the drain pan is going to overflow and cause a big mess).

Therefore,to take the Tank out (or "drop" the tank),you have to first detach the skid plate,lower the tank a little,using the jack,disconnect the various hoses(Fuel vent(Clamped),Fuel Filler(Clamped),4 more on top of the tank(2 Clamped),and then ,carefully lower the tank fully.The reason for lowering the tank a little is because the four hoses on top of the tank are short (so is the fuel sending unit wire connection),and two of them are clamped;lowering the tank a little gives easier access to disconnect them before fully lowering the tank,after making sure the filler and vent hose has been disconnected as well.Those are accessed from the rear driver side wheel well(after removing the tire).There is a shroud with pop out fasteners) Also,a few fasteners have to be removed from around the fuel filler cap.This will make it easy for the hoses to come off from both ends,before dropping the tank(Don't lower the tank before you disconnect the filler cap to tank hoses).You may need to wiggle the tank a bit while lowering it because the passenger side of the skid plate overlaps the exhaust pipe(for safety reasons).

The YJ fuel tank has a metal skid plate(The tank actually sits on it ,attached snugly by two straps,front side is hinged into the skid plate and rear side has a bolt end which comes down at the rear,under the bumper. and,depending on the model year,it will either have a metal,or a poly fuel tank.There are 3 fasteners in the forward facing side of the skid plate(in a simple nut/bolt configuration where you are gonna have to hold the accessable bolt from top,using either a wrench/pliers/or locking pliers(which I used)).Both the nut and the bolt can be accessed easily.The bad part is that the nut/bolts might have so much rust that your socket will not get a good grip and will slip.The good part is that you can use the hacksaw and cut the nut/bolt all the way or,depending on how stuck it is,just halfway,and use a pipe wrench(little version) to pry it loose .You can then get galvanized ,or better,stainless steel nut/bolt combo and they will never rust again.


The rear bolts should be easier to remove,but care should be taken,as two of the rear bolts(Bolt on top,nut on bottom) are actually extensions of the fuel tank harness and should never be damaged or you will have to replace the two straps.

Once the tank is lowered enough,disconnect the four hoses(Plus electrical connector for Sending Unit) on the top and two on the side.Now you can lower it further and(After gently dragging the tank out from under the Jeep) stick tubing inside to siphon the fuel into an approved container.(Assuming there was no leak on the tank and you are drainng it now)

The fuel pump assembly can now be removed after loosening and taking out the fasteners. Be very careful when you pull out the Fuel Pump /Sending Unit assembly as it is very delicate with sensor stuff hanging out.

If you are replacing the tank,you can use the same unit.

Installation is the reverse of removal.Make sure you tighten the fasteners to correct torque...after applying Anti-Seize Compound/Lubricant.